Frequently Asked Questions
Cleaning and caring for cloth pads is a lot less intimidating than many people think. Basically, treat them as you would any other item of clothing that has got blood on it.
- Do wash the pads before wearing them.
- Go ahead and wash them in the machine, or if you wash them by hand you can scrub them mercilessly. The natural materials become more absorbent with each wash. It's ok to toss them in the dryer as well.
- Use cold water to avoid setting stains.
- The pads will not develop odors unless they are stored damp in a place that doesn't have much airflow. (i.e. no need to hermetically seal them. Toss them directly into the hamper, or allow them to air dry before tossing into the hamper if you've soaked them first.
Soft structure Tyvek: Wash in hot water once before using. After that, wash in warm or cold water only and line dry to ensure a long life for your pads.
Tencel: Wash in cold water. Do not use Dr. Bronners because it causes the dye to bleed. Only use detergents and soaps that are specifically meant for laundry. If you use soap nuts or a homemade detergent, be sure to include salt to keep the colors from bleeding.
Silk Tops: Don't soak silk for more than half an hour. Washing with a natural shampoo or castile soap rather than laundry detergent may give better results and may help the pads live longer. Do not use a laundry detergent that has enzymes.
Silk and Wool: Do not use a detergent that has enzymes.
Here is a chart that shows which popular laundry detergents contain enzymes.
Rinse thoroughly under cold running water as soon as possible, then pre-soak in cold water for about an hour.
If you won't be able to wash the pads for a few days, it's better to let them air dry between soaking and washing than to leave them sitting in soak water. If you do leave them soaking for more than a day, be sure to change the water every day. Warm or hot wash is ok as long as stains have been rinsed or soaked out in cold water first.
It's ok to wash the pads in hot water, but be aware that hot water can set blood stains in your other clothing as well as in the pads.
If you share washing facilities with others and want to keep your pads private, you may want to wash them in a mesh bag. For a discreet soak, fill the washer with cold water and leave your laundry soaking in there for an hour or for as long as you can get away with it before turning the machine on.
Fabric softeners will reduce absorbency, but a little vinegar in the rinse is a great alternative.
Soaking these pads for longer than an hour isn't necessary and could even cause the fabrics to deteriorate more quickly. Each piece is only a few layers of fabric, so they don't need as much soaking time as do most all-in-one style pads.
A: No.
Welcome to the world of cloth pads! You may want to try a variety of sizes shapes and materials before you buy a lot of any one thing, since cloth pads often feel and work differently than disposables. You may find that you feel more secure with a longer or wider cloth pad than you would be comfortable with if it were paper and plastic.
The top layer of a cloth pad can feel dry and comfy even if the layers under it are soaked through, so it takes some getting used to learning when it's time to change. A layer of PUL or some other water resistant backing can give you extra security until you get the hang of knowing when your pad is full. I sometimes refer to PUL lined pads as “training pads” although many women who have watery flow find that they do need some waterproofing most of the time.
Recommended order: 
Standard Variety Sampler Set.
Vegan, all-natural, and all cotton and hemp options are available.
A: I have used multi-part pads such as Glad Rags or Lunapads.
Great! Pads from Amy's Rag Bag are a similar concept, but in a lot of ways completely different. These are multi-part pads, but the pieces can be used alone as liners. You don't have to stuff them or fit them under bands, you simply stack them with the winged layer on top to hold everything in place.
Similar to Lunapads, you can often change the top layer only when the bottom layer stays clean.
A: I have used all-in-one style pads.
These are different in that pieces can be used individually, but most of the time a pad is made up of two pieces. What's convenient about these is that they are easy to wash and they shouldn't take any more time to dry than the rest of your laundry does. They are also customizable – the winged liner is usually your main pad, and then you add absorbency and/or waterproofing as you need it.
Mostly light or moderate.
Winged liner and straight absorbent boosterYou could probably get by with light pads most of the time, and you can add boosters as needed. You will rarely, if ever, need to use three pieces at a time.
Light Pads
11 inch Bow Tie and Stretch Wing
All-in-One Pads
Standard Variety
Short Pads for Light Flow
Long Pads for Light Flow
Mostly heavy.
Layered in the MiddleA winged liner should give you enough protection on your lightest days, but most of the time you're going to want the complete sandwich = winged liner + absorbent booster+ water resistant booster.
Standard Variety
Short Pads for Heavy Flow
Mid-Lenght Pads for Heavy Flow
Long Pads for Heavy Flow
My heavy days are very heavy.
Short Pads for Heavy Flow
Mid-Lenght Pads for Heavy Flow
Long Pads for Heavy Flow
Watery gushes.
Watery gushes need some textured material to grab and absorb them so that they don't spread to the edges of the pad's surface. Flannel and terry do the job well. PUL for waterproofing or wool or synthetic fleece for a water resistant backing can help distribute flow inside the pad so that you can wear it longer between changes. The heavier your flow is and the greater the the gushes, the more area coverage you'll need.
cotton terry top
Thick or Clotty.
If your flow is mostly thick or clotty, you'll want to avoid silk and flat cotton topped pads. Flat cotton tops feel wet and silk tops develop a crust when thicker flow doesn't permeate.
The good news is that you can almost certainly get by without any waterproofing.
My flow varies a lot.
Flannel is a good all-purpose topping when you don't know what you're going to get. You may want to err on the side of terry if you're worried about any surprise gushing.
flannel tops
It spreads to the back of the pad.
10 inch Bow TieYou'll probably want at least 8 inches of pad - 10 or 11 if you are tall and/or if your flow tends to use your body's natural channel before depositing itself at the back of the pad.
The Backups provide thin area coverage with flares to help keep the pad in place, and then you can stack absorbency where you need it.
It spreads to the front of the pad.
Asymmetrical All-In-OneToppers and Backup pieces (the ones that aren't symmetrical) can be worn with the big/long end to the front. You will need at least 7 inches of asymmetrical pad, or at least 10 inches if your flow spreads to the back as well as to the front.
It spreads side to side.
Contrary to popular belief, this does not necessarily mean that you need wings. If you have heavy gushes that flow straight down or to the sides, it's important to have a flannel, velour or terry top to grab it immediately. Channels along the top of the pad are also important.
Cores Sewn InThe way I sew the cores in, the edges (except for hemp jersey) fluff out after a few washings and act as buffers, kind of like the training lanes at the bowling alley. The way the tops are folded under also helps buffer against side leaks. Pads generally get more absorbent the more you wash them, but if you have heavy flow and are worried about side leaks, you will especially want to wash the pads at least twice and wear them for a couple “dry runs” before using them when you have your period.
Channelled SoakersAnother way to combat side leakage is to leave the core out of the Topper altogether, so that you've got a concave top layer that catches your flow and channels it into the Soaker and/or Backup below.
It goes straight down.
Short PadsThe top layer's absorbency isn't as important as it is for wild and crazy flow, so go ahead and try all the different toppings to see which ones are the most comfortable for you. Flat cotton is cool and thin and a more popular choice in Summer. It also comes in more interesting prints and retains its good looks longer than flannel does.
You will want PUL, wool or synthetic fleece to help distribute your flow throughout the pad so that you don't have to change as often.
It varies a lot.
Area coverage and an absorbent, textured top are important for all-purpose pads.
Standard
Stretch WingsIf you're an experienced cup user:
Liners alone usually work great for menstrual cup backup. They come in a stretch wing style or with standard cotton wings. The stretch wings are trimmer and contain 3% lycra.
A Guitar Pick is a liner made for thong underwear.
The mini contoured backups worn alone work well too, but they don't have wings so you may want to safety pin them to your underwear to keep them from falling into the toilet. You will also want to wear snug-fitting underwear with this wingless option.
Sampler Sets
If your cup doesn't leak very much and you just want a thin layer of pad for extra security, I recommend trying the All Winged Liners Sampler Set or the All Liners, Including Some for Thong if you wear thong underwear. Both of these sets will give you the chance to try a variety of winged shapes, styles and sizes. You will probably be most comfortable with flat cotton or silk tops if your pads stay dry most of the time.
If your cup does overflow or give you some surprises sometimes, I recommend the Short Pads for Light Flow Sampler Set or the All-in-One Light Pads and Liners Set.
Super Toppers8 1/2" AIOIf the cup is new for you:
Sometimes it takes a while to get the hang of how to insert a menstrual cup so that it doesn't leak, and pads come in handy in case of accidents. I would use a light or medium pad to begin with for cup backup. A light pad could handle a day of dribbles, and a medium pad could handle one or two serious gushes or about four hours of light flow. Both of these pads are included in the Training Pads for Menstrual Cup Backup sampler set.
Other Recommendations
Recommended Pieces: Liners or contoured boosters for light leaks. Light or medium pads for heavy leaks.
Recommended Materials: Silk or flat cotton tops for light leaks. flat cotton or flannel tops for heavy leaks. Hemp jersey or organic cotton fleece cores.
Recommended Sampler Sets:
All-in-One Light Pads and Liners Set
All Winged Liners Sampler Set
All Liners, Including Some for Thong
Short Pads for Light Flow Sampler Set
Training Pads for Menstrual Cup Backup
Recommended site: The Livejournal Menstrual Cups Community is a great source of information.
As long as possible.
Generally speaking, the longer you go between changes, the more you're going to want to layer up. Flannel on top and PUL at the back are your best options for keeping a pad thin and making sure that almost every fiber is saturated before it overflows, but you don't want to wear a PUL pad to the point of saturation because when it finally does overflow, you will have a messy flood on your hands. I think a pad would get uncomfortable before it got that saturated anyway.
Recommended Pieces: Any.
Recommended Materials: Wool, PUL or synthetic fleece.
I change pads frequently.
Silk and flat cotton tops have a nice fresh feeling for short-term use. If you're changing frequently, you probably won't need to worry about waterproofing and you won't need to layer up as much.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any of the all natural or all cotton/hemp options. Short/light or long/light sampler set.
It depends on where I am or how heavy my period is.
The amount of time you expect to pass before you get to the next restroom will help determine the number of layers you wear at a time. If you're out and about in the world, pack some extra pad pieces in a small wet bag, zippered makeup bag, or even a re-purposed pencil pouch. The more breathable your carrier is, the less likely your pad is to develop odors.
Yes it does!
You're going to want to wear brief, boy cut or standard bikini style underwear with your pads. It's best if they have a snug fit and are made of a natural fiber wit a little bit of stretch.
If your underwear creeps where it shouldn't when you're not wearing a pad, that's a bad sign about how it will behave when you do have a pad in place. This can happen because the narrowest part of the crotch is too far back, and it may pull the pad further back than you want it. If this is the only type of underwear you have, you can compensate for the problem by wearing pads that are longer in the front.
High Cut
These should be fine as long as they fit well and are made of sturdy material, but you can't rely on the contour of this style to keep pads in place.
Bikini
Standard bikinis work better than high cuts because they have more contour.
With bikini style underwear, you may be able to get away with pads that are narrower than the standard 2 3/4 inches, as bikini crotches average closer to 2 1/2 inches wide.
Cotton or hemp briefs.
Never underestimate the power of good, sturdy briefs. Their crotch width is usually smack in the middle of average and they have ample contour to keep your pads in place.
Classic Hipsters and Barely There
These undies may be too narrow to work with most of the pads that I make, although people have found them compatible with the mini contoured backup and I can make the other pieces extra skinny for you. If you're really a minimalist though, you may prefer to go wingless. A safety pin will keep wingless pads from falling into the toilet.
Custom Narrow pads
Thong
Guitar Pick
Slippery, satin, silky, synthetic / baggy or old with worn out elastic.
Wear slippery, thin materials and baggy underwear at your own risk. If you do wear them, you'll need bigger pads with flared ends to compensate for any shifting, and you'll need a good textured backing material like synthetic fleece or corduroy.
Hat tip to Bruce, A. H., Fogg, G. J., Diedling, F. J. and Hammons, J. L. for some of the crotch widths. http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6604609.html
Contrary to popular belief, taller and larger people do not usually need wider pads than the more petite. According to this article (and the research that I conducted in my local underwear department), standard crotch width for almost any size underwear is 2.5 - 2.75 inches, but there is variation in styles. Bikinis and hipsters usually run narrower than high cuts and briefs.
Size does make a difference in the length of the pad - particularly in the crotch length, which is the narrowest part.
The pieces on the right are cut with longer crotches.
Silk ?
No problem! Silk isn't a very common topping for menstrual pads. It's more popular for every day liners.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any of the vegan or all cotton/hemp options. Long/heavy or short/heavy sampler set. No Wings sampler set.
Wool?
Wool isn't for everyone. I only use it when specifically asked to. It's a good option for someone who has heavy flow and doesn't want any synthetics, but otherwise it's fine to leave it out.
Recommended sampler sets: Any of the vegan or all cotton/hemp options. Any of the standard and all-natural sets except the water resistant and wool sets.
Flannel Toppings?
I'll make flat cotton topped pads instead for your light flow pads, and I'll use terry for your heavy flow.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Standard Variety Sampler set with cotton terry, silk, or flat cotton substituted for flannel.
Hemp?
Cotton terry and organic cotton terry cores for you! Some people are allergic to hemp.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any, with cotton terry and/or organic cotton fleece substituted for hemp terry and heavy flannels substituted for hemp jersey.
Any conventional cotton?
Not really possible. All of my flannels and corduroys are conventional cotton. I can make your pads with organic cotton tops and organic cotton/hemp cores, but only if they're 8 1/2” long or less.
PUL?
Many cloth pad users prefer to avoid PUL. I'll definitely leave it out if you want your pads to be all-natural or if maximum breathability is important.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any of the all-natural or all cotton/hemp options. Short/light, long/light, all winged liners, all winged liners and AIO, Guitar Picks and Liners, With Wool.
Synthetic fleece?
Athough it is breathable, I'll avoid it if you want your pads to be all-natural or if maximum breathability is important.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any of the all-natural or all cotton/hemp options. Short/light, long/light, all winged liners, all winged liners and AIO, Guitar Picks and Liners, Thin Sampler Set.
Anything synthetic?
Yep. But if your flow is very heavy and/or watery, you'll want to layer up the absorbency and/or use wool.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any of the all-natural or all cotton/hemp options. Short/light, long/light, all winged liners, all winged liners and AIO, Guitar Picks and Liners.
Soak them for up to an hour before washing.
In most cases, this is enough to prevent staining as long as you soak them immediately after wearing them.
Soak them for up to a few days (not recommended!)
If you aren't going to be able to wash your pads right away, I recommend simply letting them air dry in between wearing/soaking and washing.
Wash them in the machine with the rest of my laundry.
This is what I do, although I don't recommend it if you want to avoid stains. Keep in mind that hot water can set blood stains into your other clothes, so rinse them out first if you're going to wash them on hot.
Hand wash.
Hand washing is great if you have the time, but not necessary.
Line dry.
Good for you! Your neighbors will never be able to figure out what they are. I've had several people guess “eye glass cases.”
I want my pad stash to last as long as possible.
Silk doesn't have the greatest longevity. Hemp is more durable than cotton, and flannel tops may wear out before flat cotton or terry tops do.
Recommended materials: No silk. Hemp cores. Flat cotton tops
It's important for my pads to dry quickly.
The longest any of these pads will take to dry is about as long as a pair of jeans would take. Hemp jersey is the slowest drying material that I use, and flannel is the fastest. Trifold Soakers dry more quickly than Standard Soakers. All others are about the same.
Recommended Materials: Silk tops, flannel tops, cotton terry cores, hemp terry cores.
Recommended Pieces: Trifold Soakers instead of Standard Soakers.
I'm concerned about odors.
If you've had problems with odiforous disposable pads, you'll most likely be pleasantly surprised when you start using cloth. Most of the vaginal bacteria that cause odors are anaerobic, so they are much more likely to proliferate when trapped in a paper and plastic pad.
To avoid odors in cloth pads, use all-natural materials as much as possible, and try changing thin pads frequently rather than trying to make a thicker pad last all day.
Recommended Materials: cotton and hemp. Only use synthetic fleece or PUL if you are dealing with heavy and/or watery flow.
I like my pads so thin I can't even feel them.
Hemp terry absorbs just as much as cotton terry and is a lot thinner, although it has less surface area and therefore doesn't absorb as fast. PUL backing is great if you want a super thin pad that you can wear for a long time between changes.
I like the security of a soft fluffy pad, thank you.
Cotton terry cores make a pad soft and fluffy.
If you live in a hot climate, you may want to avoid synthetics as much as possible. They don't breathe as well as natural fabrics, so they could get warm and make you sweat. Flannel also feels warmer than other toppings, so you may prefer a silk or flat cotton top during the warmest parts of the year.
Recommended materials for warm climates: Flat cotton and Silk Tops. No Synthetics.
Recommended Sampler Sets: Any all-natural option with flat cotton or cotton terry substituted for flannel.
Basically, you take a boostable liner, which has wings, and put a wingless booster underneath it if you need to. You can use an absorbent booster and/or or a thin water resistant booster for extra security.
You can leave out the winged liner and use boosters alone if you'd rather not have wings.
• 
Heavy pad: Boostable liner on top, absorbent booster in the middle, water resistant booster on the bottom.
• Medium wingless pad: Absorbent booster and water resistant booster, or two absorbent boosters stacked.
• Medium winged pad: Boostable liner and either an absorbent or water resistant booster.
• Light wingless pad/liner: Any contoured absorbent booster
• Light pad/liner with wings: Any boostable liner.
You can carry pads in a small make-up bag or wrap them tightly in a swath of leak-proof fabric. You can also find bags made for carrying pads in Etsy shops and elsewhere on the web.
These pads have secure and easy all-fabric fastening systems. Very comfortable on a bicycle seat! To stack and fasten the pads, lay the liner on top of any boosters you're using and wrap the wings around the boosters and your underwear.
The standard fastener is a loop and tab. To fasten, pull the tab on one wing through the loop on the other wing.
Here is a closer view of the picture.
Another option is a tab and button hole. With this fastening system, both of the wings are tucked up under each other so they won't tickle your thighs. Wings tickling your thighs could be a bother if you're wearing thin liners under loose clothes, especially if you have the pads cut narrow.
Topper and SoakerTwo, in most cases. For most women, a regular pad consists of a liner over a booster.
liner, absorbent booster, water resistant boosterFor heavy flow or if you want to go a long time between changes, you may want to add a second booster.
You can get by with just one piece for spotting, really light flow, or for a postcoital pad.
I love to barter! Cookies and other good things to eat, sewing tools and other useful items, reading material, toys for the cats, handmade art... I'm not allergic or averse to anything.
I am a freegan at heart though, so all I ask is that you don't buy me anything. Send me stuff that you've made by hand, found in your closet or rescued from the trash.
I also love alternative currencies. I take life dollars from Fourth Corner Exchange and shares from Cloth Bank. Prices are 3-4 pieces of pad per life dollar; and 1 Cloth Bank share = 1 US dollar.
It's ok if all you have to give me is money, since that's the only way to cover some of the costs. You can pay me through paypal, etsy, google checkout, or you can send checks for up to $25 or money orders.
Prices are based on the time it takes to make each piece, rather than on the materials used since a lot of the fabrics I get are free or very close to it.
Here is my price list.
I'll give you $5 off your order for each yard of fabric, or $10 per pound of scraps/ruined clothing. Partial amounts are ok, for example you could get $5 worth of pads for half a pound of scraps.
Except for the fleece and PUL, everything needs to be 100% cotton and woven, not knit. No baby prints, please. Flannel clothing is great as long as most of it is not pilled, faded or thread-bare.
Here's what I need:
- Fabric scraps - At least 5 square inch scraps of flat cotton, woven or knit hemp, fleece or PUL. Cottons need to be woven, not knit.
- At least 3" x 5" scraps of hemp terry.
- At least 4" x 6" silk scraps.
- Fatally torn or stained cotton pajamas, flannel pajamas, flannel sheets, wool, silk or fleece clothing that still has usable fabric. (No jeans or tee shirts.)
- 100% silk or soft wool ties that nobody wants to wear, one pad piece per tie.
- Scraps of fleece at least 5" x 9" (no pills).
- Orders go first class mail unless another service is requested.
- I'll invoice you for estimated exact postage unless we're trading goods.
- Up to 5 pieces ship for $1.60.
- 6 to 10 pieces ship for $2.20.
- 11 to 15 pieces ship for $2.80.
- 16 pieces and up ship for $3.40.
- International Shipping: Please inquire.
Washington State Residents: I have to charge sales tax, but I'll give you a 10% discount for buying local.
Please fill out the order form when you are ready to order, even if you've already told me which pads you'd like via email or the consultation form.
If you've selected more themes and colors than I can use or if I have questions about your preferences, I'll send pictures and ask you to make some decisions.
I will repair, replace or give refunds for any defects.
Lots and lots of fabric. Due to the customizability of the pads and the variety of materials I have to work with, the pads are assembled as they are ordered. I do weekly batches, so most orders go out the second Friday after the day they're ordered.
This is a good question, considering I use reclaimed materials. There are lots and lots of different fabrics, many of them in very small quantities. New stuff is always coming in, and stuff I use is always running out.
You can request specific fabrics that you see in the photos and I'll let you know if I still have them. You can also order by themes such as "cutesy" or "earthy" and you can plan color schemes. If I'm at all unsure of what you're requesting, I'll send pictures of fabrics that seem to fit your order and you can tell me which ones to use and which ones not to. You can also see pictures and request changes after the pads are sewn.
Example of a Fabric Palette: click on image for closer view.
Even if you have a pretty good idea of what you're looking for in a pad, filling out the consultation is a good way to make sure I'm clear on what you need. I may suggest options that you hadn't realized were available, or I may even design a new pad for you. Several of my latest designs were created in response to the needs of customers who filled out the form.
If you'd like quick but thorough answers and don't mind that they aren't personalized, I recommend taking a look at this Q & A.
A sampler set, made up of 6 to 9 different pieces of pad, is a great way to get acquainted with the various sizes, shapes and materials that are available from Amy's Rag Bag.
Please keep in mind that one piece doesn't equal one pad unless you're going to use them as liners. In most cases it takes two pieces to make a pad, sometimes three.
The price is $15 per set, which works out to about a 40% discount since the pieces would add up to $24 to $25 if you bought them individually. Because the sampler sets are so deeply discounted, they are limited to one per customer.
Descriptions of each of the 42 different sets are coming soon.
Instead of metal or plastic fasteners, these pads have a unique loop and tab fastening system. It’s simple, sturdy and comfortable. I’ve really put it to the test – running after busses, bike rides, bounding up and down step-ladders at work – and I’ve never had one come undone. All you need to do is grasp the middle of the wings and pull apart when it’s time to remove the pad.
My goal was to combine the convenience of an all-in-one pad with the versatility of multi-parts. Combine one, two or three pieces for many possible combinations. No need to stuff the pieces or affix them to each other. They are very easy to wash and dry, and they are so versatile that you probably won’t need as many as you may think. 
Almost nothing new was taken from the Earth to make these pads.
Most of my flat cottons and backing materials are garage sale and thrift store finds and leftovers from quilters, crafters, diaper makers, and other pad makers. The terry comes from commercial kitchen towels. Flannels mostly come from ruined shirts and pajamas. The silks are from ties I bought at the thrift store. Hemp core materials are scraps gleaned from the cutting table of Texture Clothing.
The only new materials I use are thread and soft structure Tyvek, which is a hidden waterproofing material.
All fabrics except the silks are pre-washed with Seventh Generation Free and Clear. Sometimes I use baking soda, and I add vinegar to the rinse for extra softness and absorbency. The silks are washed in Nature's Gate Shampoo and tea tree oil.
You don’t need to pay money for them. I’ll take fabrics, homemade cookies, zines… I have a weakness for anything handmade. I also accept Life Dollars through Fourth Corner exchange.
You may want to add a whole kit to your cart to begin with. Then when it's time to review your order you have the chance to remove anything you don't want. Removing items from your kit will reduce the price. Another way to do it would be to add items to your cart individually, but this would take a lot more time.
An account will be created for you when you go through the checkout. After you complete the transaction, you will find the files if you go to http://amysragbag.com/user, click on 'Files' or 'Click here to view your file downloads'. You can download the files and save them onto your own computer. There's no limit to the number of times you can download the files, and you can access them from multiple computers.
In the event that the files are updated, the same links on your account page will give you access to the new versions instead of the old ones.
Yes! Please feel free to contact me if you need help. The tutorial gives you my email address and phone number, and you can also use the contact form on the site. I prefer email, but you can call on the phone if you're really in a bind.
I may not be able to help you if you're having trouble with your sewing machine. I use my Grandma's old Kenmore, so I may be able to help you if your machine is something similar, but I've never sat down with one of the new computerized machines that a lot of people have now. There are lots of forums and sites on the net that can help with general sewing questions. I also recommend Madam Chino's Basic Sewing You-torials available from Pennyspencer on Etsy.
You have the right to sell what you make with your own hands - no license necessary. I hope you do well! But I do ask, as a common courtesy, that you credit me as the designer and let me know when and where you sell the pads. Items that you sell that are made using these patterns should have a statement something like:
These pads were handmade by ________________. I used the tutorial and patterns available at amysragbag.com.
If you change the pattern, you could put something like:
These pads were handmade by ________________. I used a modified version of the patterns available at amysragbag.com.
You can reword the statement a little, but it should have your name or your business name and my web address. You may not describe your work as "Amy's Rag Bag pads."
Please don't forget to let me know when and where you're selling the pads! I may direct customers to you if I like your work, if a customer asks for something that you're making and I'm not, or if I'm backed up in my own orders.
No. If you buy downloads, do not give access to the files, copies of the files, or printouts to other people. Do not make copies of the patterns or the tutorials unless it's for your own use.
These pads are sewn to last. They don’t have that hot-off-the-assembly-line look, but they are durable. I use polyester thread (the one ingredient that I buy new). My grandma's old Kenmore doesn't do anything fancy, but it does a good job. The flannels are sturdy – many of them are from those work shirts that last for years and years. The flat cotton is the stuff that’s usually used in quilts, and the terry is from commercial kitchen towels.
Cloth menstrual pads are sometimes called Momma Pads. I think that this is because so many women discovered them when they decided to cloth-diaper their babies. I am a cat lady, so I guess that would make these Cat Lady Pads. But you can also use them if you are a dog lady, or even if you don’t have pets or kids. 
I only take fatally stained or torn clothing. Usable clothes (except for silk ties) end up either on my back or at the thrift store.
I haven’t heard of any medical studies, but a lot of women say that cloth pads have reduced cramps and other discomforts during their periods. They are definitely more comfortable!
It's true that giving a piece of fabric a second life only keeps it out of the landfill for so long. The real environmental and social benefits of not purchasing new materials come from the fact that when you don't by new materials, no new materials will be manufactured to replace them on the open market. At the end of the day, less materials produced means less in the landfills.
I also have personal aversions to buying new things and throwing things away that is probably more a force of habit. I grew up as the second of seven, and people must have known that it was hard to clothe that many kids. We would often come home and find anonymous garbage bags full of clothing on the porch. There was a little brawl on the living room floor over anything that was wearable, and then I would pack up the rest in the shredded remains of the garbage bag and haul it upstairs to my room.
I spent a lot of time altering the clothes - one reason was to make them fit but another reason was to disguise the fact that I was possibly wearing my friends' dads' old shirts and their mothers' old dresses to school. I was not very good at what I did, but I got creative with it. There was a strawberry shortcake outfit, a Christmas tree outfit... My friends said it hurt to look at me and my sister threatened to burn my clothes. I had to hide them in the neighbor's basement. Keep in mind that this was the early 90's, when drab was in and mix-and-match was unheard of.
I never developed a taste for new clothes. They smell weird, for one thing. It takes a while to make them comfortable. Bags and boxes of scraps of fabric and clothing have been following me around and filling up my closets for years but they didn't have a dedicated purpose until I discovered cloth pads. I used to say that I would take up quilting some day, but I think this is a lot more fun.
Nobody. I just like the name.
I know that plaid is less than pretty and has probably never been called feminine. It's associated with lumberjacks, grunge and school uniforms. So why is there so much of it? Why is it so hard to find good quality second-hand flannel that isn't plaid?
Flannels that are yarn-dyed before weaving as opposed to printed upon after weaving hold their colors longer. High quality flannels are preferably yarn-dyed. Yarn-dyed woven fabrics come in plaid, stripes, solids... maybe argyle? That's about it.
Usually a fabric's quality is apparent by the time I get my hands on it. A lot of the plaid flannel shirting is very soft and unpilly, while a lot of the printed flannel pj's do not look and feel nice enough to be used as an outside layer. There are exceptions - I've got some very good quality printed flannels and I've seen poor quality yarn-dyed. I've used up a shirt that was printed blue plaid, but it faded beautifully and was very soft and absorbent. I miss that shirt. If you've got a blue "cats" pad from me you probably have some of it.
I'm still taking all the non-plaid flannel I can get because ladies ask for it, but a lot of this plaid flannel is really good stuff.
Switching from disposables to cloth keeps about 250 to 300 pounds of trash out of the land fills.
These pads are made of second-hand materials (except thread and tyvek), so they don't create demand for more materials to be produced, which means that at the end of the day there is a little bit less of the earth destroyed and a little bit less stuff in the landfills than there would be if I bought new.
However, I do use an electric sewing machine, an electric iron, electric lights, washing machines, water, a natural detergent, and of course a computer. Each order is shipped or delivered via fossil fuel-powered vehicles. The energy I use at home isn't green, unfortunately, but the site is hosted using green energy.
